Day 11: The Temples of Ancient Angkor

The morning started off with a 9 am start. The extra hour of sleep was needed because we had a very busy day ahead of us. After the classic breakfast of rice and assorted noodles, meats, etc at the hotel, we hopped on our bus and headed off for the enormous temple complex that made up the political and spiritual center of the ancient Angkor kingdom.  The first site we visited was the huge gate into Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom was like a city with a collection of huge temples strewn inside its massive walls, surrounded by a protective 30-meter wide moat covered in lily pads. The walls were covered with bas reliefs, which is when the carvings look like they are embossed on the stone, and told stories of ancient battles and Hindu epics . We walked through the West entrance on foot and headed to our first temple of the day, Bayon.

We got to go up onto the third level of the temple, after touring around the gallery on the outside wall.  The stairs were incredibly steep and narrow, and we were all out of breath after going up just once.  The third level was filled with giant, intricately carved faces that were designed to blend the king's face with that of the Hindu god, Vishnu, and looked like they were following you everywhere you walked. After that we drove to four different temples, each more beautiful than the last.  Some of these temples were less crowded, so we had to opportunity to find a peaceful spot to sit and take in the undisturbed scenery. The third temple, Ta Prohm, was nearly everyone's favorite, with its walls wrapped by  huge sponge trees, and their roots draping over us almost creating a roof. Our guide said that government scientists had figured out that some of the trees were almost 350 years old, but that paled in comparison to the temples' 1200 years. After our event-filled morning we stopped at a restaurant called the Blue Pumpkin to grab lunch before going to the day's main attraction, Angkor Wat.

Just walking across the huge bridge into Angkor Wat was impressive. Its massive moat had been dug completely by humans and it looked more like a river than anything man-made, and the monkeys who clustered around it kept us all pretty entertained and alert, since the monkeys like to chase anyone they think might be carrying food. As we approached the temple behind our guide, Por Heng, we all thought about the sweat and tears that must have gone into building of not just Angkor Wat, but all of the temples in the Siem Reap area. The temple was filled with beautiful carvings on the walls and a multitude of tunnels, with endless opportunities to explore the architecture and history.  During our hour and a half break, we were able to climb up to the top level of Angkor Wat. Despite waiting in the long line for the top level, the scenery and architecture were unbelievable.   We were able to see a clear view of the crumbling stone walls and passageways, as well as the rolling green hills and trees surrounding us.  After a quiet bus ride back into town, we enjoyed a nice Khmer dinner and went back to the hotel very tired from a full day.

The faces of Bayon

Bas relief at Bayon

From the top of Angkor Wat

In front of Angkor Wat

Day 12: One Last Great Adventure in Cambodia

Our morning started off the same as usual, with another delicious breakfast buffet at our hotel. We ate plenty of food knowing it would be a long final day ahead of us. After breakfast, we embarked on our final day in Cambodia.

The first stop of the morning was a beautiful Banteay Srei teample, known as "The Lady Temple". Of all the temples we have visited, we saw the most detailed and ornate carvings and stories on the temple walls. Unlike other temples we've seen, it did not stand tall, but rather spread out over a big area. It was interesting to hear our tour guide tell stories about the temple while he explained what some of the individual carvings meant in the context of Cambodia's religious past. As we have every day, we then had time to explore individually and in small groups, while some of us just found a shady spot to contemplate.

Next, we took a drive up Kulen Mountain, where we saw a variety of holy monuments and bodies of water. The first was a long riverbed where ancient carvings were made as a tribute to Hindu gods. Then we went to a close-by waterhole that was celebrated with incense and candles, where our group crossed paths with an interesting Turkish man with an inflatable turtle that he carried around to prove something that was never entirely clear. He asked students Dina and Ally to take pictures with his turtle for his Instagram page, to show that his turtle has been all around the world. Following that unusual encounter, we headed further up the mountain up a long staircase to see a large, reclining Buddha sculpture that is constantly being worshiped.

After lunch we headed to the most anticipated part of the day: the waterfall. Our plans were almost ruined by a growing thunderstorm, however, we were in the clear when the thunder hadn't struck for thirty minutes. All the students and chaperones jumped into the pool from the larger-than-life waterfall that towered over us. The waterfall was approximately thirty feet high and there was an immense water flow, despite February being in the dry season. It was one of the best experiences of the trip, and a perfect one to do on our last full day in Cambodia. Having to run to the bus in the pouring rain on a jungle-like mountain was a truly unforgettable experience!

As a final treat and experience in Cambodia, the students all got full body massages together back in the city of Siem Reap. It was a great way to decompress after two weeks of constant adventures, and the students appreciated the opportunity greatly. Afterwards we enjoyed a cook-it-yourself Korean barbecue-style "hot pot" dinner in which we tried our first alligator, which we discovered actually DOES taste like chicken. To wrap the day up in style, the group got ice cream cakes to celebrate both Emerson's birthday and our last night together. As a special surprise, our wonderful tour guide, Por Heng, brought his wife and three children to the ice cream parlor to meet us so that they could practice their English skills. To end the night and our amazing trip to Cambodia, one group of students headed to a stand where they could get their feet massaged by small fish that nibble on the dead skin under your feet., while other groups cruised around the night markets one last time in search of the last perfect souvenir, or just to take in the sights and sounds of bustling Siem Reap. Tomorrow we leave in the morning to fly to Hong Kong, before wrapping up the journey in Los Angeles.

Bas relief at Banteay Srei

Cambodia 2017 at Kulen Falls

Day 10: Our First Look at Angkor Temples

After a fun night of bargaining and walking around the famous night market in Siem Reap, we began the day with an excellent breakfast at the hotel. Shortly after, we hopped aboard a new bus that we will be using for the remainder of the trip and soon arrived at the temple ticket office to have photo IDs made that would allow us to enter the sacred Khmer temples that are our primary reason for visiting Siem Reap.

We then went to our first stop of the day, Preah Ko, which translated to "Sacred Cow." We arrived when the sun was shining perfectly on the buildings, illuminating every detail and crevice of the thousand year old structure. At this temple, there were six separate shrines, each dedicated to the three main Hindu gods; Vishnu, Brahma, Shiva, and their three wives. The wives' temples were behind their husbands and, in this perfect sunlight, shadows from their husbands' temples were covering theirs. This highlighted the importance that men have over women in Khmer culture, and how traces from this cultural preference are still shown in Cambodia today. This prevailing belief that men are superior to women is shown when girls are more likely to drop out of school than boys, and how girls in school are more likely to have greater responsibilities in the household. It was amazing to see the attention to detail that was put into the carving of each individual stone. It was also astounding to realize that this temple was made in the 9th century, while Europe was still culturally stuck in the Middle Ages. This temple displayed how much the Khmer people care about their religions, both Hinduism and Buddhism, and it shows the lasting impact of their devotion to their gods.

After a very short ride in the bus, we arrived at our second site, the Bakong temple. To get there, we crossed a beautiful moat adorned with various flowers and plants that seemed like something out of a movie. Something that stood out to me was the various methods of restoration at each temple. Mr. Gass wondered to what length one goes to preserve an ancient place, and when it would be time to let it crumble. Some were held up with new bricks, while others were maintained with various forms of scaffolding. After walking up the steep steps and admiring the detailed work in each piece of stone, each of us took a seat at a peaceful place along the water, or watched the people come and go from the temple. It was mesmerizing to watch the flow of both the water and the people, as they came to and fro to enjoy this sacred place. We then boarded the bus and went our final temple of the day, Lolei. We only stayed here for a few minutes, however, because the shrines were not visible due to restoration. We took a few pictures of various wild cats and dogs, but what stood out most were two monkeys that were tied to a tree. This was especially sad because elsewhere we only saw them in the wild. Mr. Por Heng, our guide, was able to pet one monkey without any rebuttal from the animal, but it was heartbreaking to see these free animals being domesticated.

We then enjoyed a lunch of spring rolls, salad, soup and pork at a local restaurant near the temples. After eating, the group went to lay in hammocks under a covering that provided relief from the warm day. After this relaxing experience, went drove to Prasat Bakong High School, where we spoke to the director of the school and an American member of the Peace Corps who taught there. The director appeared quite proud of the fact that Michelle Obama has visited the school in 2015. We asked various questions about the school and its students, trying to compare the school with the one we visited in Battambang a few days ago, but the most meaningful part of the experience was talking to the American teacher about the impact that her time there had both on her and the surrounding community. An hour later, we boarded the bus again and went to an artisan cowhide carving shop, which also served as a school. We had a brief tour of the facilities and saw how the students lived and worked, and watched them in an English class, led by a teacher from Singapore, as we passed. The master artist paired each of his apprentices, aged nine to eighteen, with one of our students. and his students helped the Parker kids to design and create their own leather carvings. It was intriguing to see how talented each of the students were, and fun to see the artistic talent that we had within our own group. We then dyed our creations with a red stain, and, while waiting for them to dry, walked into the main building to hear beautiful songs that the apprentices were singing for us, ranging from traditional Khmer songs to American Christmas music. After thanking our student-teachers, we went back to the hotel for some free time, before enjoying a tasty dinner of beet salad, gazpacho soup, pepper seafood spaghetti and fruit ice cream for dessert at a local Siem Reap restaurant. Once arriving at the hotel, we had a quick debrief to discuss our individual impressions of the day, before venturing out to enjoy the offerings of the various various night markets in the neighborhood. All in all, a great day was had by all!

Written by Dina and Isabella

Photos by Rachel G

In front of Preah Ko

Walking down from the top of Bakong

The Entrance to Bakong Temple

Learning traditional leather working

Day 9: On to Siem Reap

The night before, we had a farewell party with our pen pals. As our farewell, we had a dance party on the rooftop lounge of our hotel and rocked out to the biggest hits of both of our cultures. Both the international and Cambodian students had a blast dancing the night away! While it was a fun night, it turned out to be a bittersweet goodbye as it was our last day seeing our pen pals for the trip. Filled with emotional tears and a warm hugs, we all shared a true moment of raw joy and endless love for one another and the relationships we made and will continue to have.

We began the day in Battambang and ended it in Siem Reap. We had the option to walk through the city one last time in the morning to get coffee with our intrepid chaperone, Mr Gass. This coffee was voted the best in Cambodia, and it was a perfect way for some of us to take advantage of our last morning in this beautiful city. Although we still missed our pen pals, we climbed on the bus and began our journey to our next and final destination: Siem Reap.

The bus ride was short (2 plus hours) and consisted mainly of breathtaking rural landscapes along  a well-paved two lane road. The journey paled in comparison to the length of our 6 hour bus drive from Phnom Penh to Battambang, however, and stopping at a grocery mart along the way, where we bought plenty of American and Cambodian snacks to keep us sustained for the duration of our journey, made the brief ride pass quickly. Best of all, our guide, Por Heng, kept us occupied with stories of his younger years in Siem Reap and the ways in which he and his family dealt with the horrors of Khmer Rouge rule and the civil war and Vietnamese invasion that followed. It always seems amazing to us that these very kind and loving people could have gone through so much so recently.

Our hotel is conveniently located in the center of the city, surrounded by many markets, including the famous Night Market. We were given some free time before our next activity, and most students decided to explore Old Market, one of the many located only a few blocks away. There we found the type of tourist gifts that seem to dominate the local markets in this bustling city, such as Buddha and elephant statues, paintings of the various temples (wats), charm bracelets, and huge tubs of small fish that nibble the dead skin off of people's feet. Most interestingly, we kept running into vendors selling fried tarantulas, scorpions, and other large insects, but it seemed like everyone was able to resist the temptation to indulge. Meeting back at the hotel, the entire group and the chaperones went to the Angkor Panorama Museum.

The museum was relatively new and very high-tech, offering images of what the nearby temples that many kings of the past had built since the 9th Century, when Cambodia was a regional powerhouse under the Angkor Empire, looked like in their day. These pictures were especially helpful because we will be visiting several of these temples over the next few days. Best of all, there was a gigantic detailed 3-D panoramic painting of the sequence of events of the Angkor Empire's history that showed scenes of war, people's daily lives, and the construction of the temples, all of which were depicted in both gruesome and powerful ways. We concluded our tour with a short documentary about the building of the biggest temple, Angkor Wat, which explained the religious and political reasons significance of the temples, while showing us the step-by-step process that the workers and artisans went through to build the temple and produce its magnificent carvings. Even the floor of the river that ran through the city was embedded with sculptures of gods that the Cambodians believed made the water holy! They used local sandstone for all the temples, which was layered on top of the foundation of red clay. The video was very informative and sparked further interpretive questions from all of us that increased our interest in the subject and  prepared us for tomorrow's adventures.

We then drove to a restaurant further into the city for dinner and were, surprisingly, served Western-style food, which made some of us wonder how much Siem Reap was built around the large number of Western tourists. Following our meal, we were given the option to go to the Night Market or explore the streets safely on our own. There was a lot of activity in the streets and it was clear that Siem Reap really came alive during the evening with beautiful shops, lights, and conversation. The streets were filled with shoppers and gawkers, even though it was Monday night, proving that Siem Reap is a hub for interaction for people from all over the world.
- Written By: Aeriel S. and Rachel K.
- Pictures: Camryn M.

Students learning about the locations of the 24 Khmer temples in Siem Reap

Viewing a 3-D model of the various Angkor temples

Checking out the unique street food

Passing-by tourists getting fish pedicures

Day 8: Up and Down a Mountain with Our Friends

After breakfast at our hotel, we, the Parker students, and our pen pals boarded the bus to go tour the Battambang market. We split into four different groups and made our way around the produce section. We saw a variety of pungent and unfamiliar meats and fish, fresh fruits, and dried foods. We saw a full pig with the head detached as well as live fish trying to escape from their buckets.

After touring the market and trying some Cambodian street foods suggested by our pen pals, we went back to our hotel for our cooking lesson. The hotel’s kitchen staff prepared a cooking class for us, teaching us how to make fried egg rolls, fish amok, which is a coconut curry and the national dish of Cambodia, and a coconut banana tapioca. First we filled egg roll wrappers with meat, then rolled them into a mini burrito, before frying them in a pot of oil. After making the egg rolls, we proceeded to make the traditional curry sauce for fish amok using a collection of spices the kitchen staff helped us prepare. The curry that we made with our pen pals was spooned into an empty coconut shell. Last, but not least, the staff showed us how to make Cambodian coconut banana tapioca, which was equally tasty. Best of all, after creating the three dishes, we were able to eat them for lunch, and wrapped up the meal with a quick ceremony in which we were given certificates from the cooking school for our efforts.

After lunch, we were given some free time before leaving for our afternoon adventure. Some students rested in their rooms, others went to get massages in the hotel, and the rest went out to walk around and check out the city. By mid-afternoon, everyone gathered together so we could drive to Sampeou Mountain and the temple atop, Wat Banan, about 30 minutes west of Battambang. Once we arrived, we joined our pen pals and our guide, Por Heng, as he led us on a steep hike up the mountain. Along the way, we stopped to enjoy several Buddhist statues and shrines, some of which depicted ancient myths that reminded the local people of their moral duties and values. We also viewed the "Killing Caves", another site of Khmer Rouge massacres. At the very top of the mountain, there was a beautiful pagoda that was home to both reverent Buddhist monks and families of monkeys. The view of Battambang from the mountain was amazing!  We could see rice patties and farms in every direction, although not as much farming was going on because this is Cambodia’s dry season. It was a peaceful view until the monkeys jumped off trees to get a closer look at tourists, many of whom were sharing the ice cream, bananas, and fried crickets they had just bought at the small market near the pagoda.

After resting and taking pictures of the shrines at the top of the mountain, we walked down stone staircases to the bottom of the mountain. There, at the base of the mountain, we waited with our pen pals and dozens of others for the sun to set, so that we could see the famous bats of Battambang fly in a huge black cloud out of their cave to feed on mosquitos and other insects. Because the mosquitos are very common this time of year, we were happy to hear of the bats' journey. Thousands of bats flew out at once in formation, darkening the skies above us in an exciting scene that none of us had ever watched before.

Saving the best for last, we returned to the hotel for dinner and a going away party with our Cambodian friends. The party consisted of old throwback songs, country music, and a few recent songs being blasted on a very loud speaker on the hotel’s open-air top floor terrace. We sang and danced with our new friends past the scheduled time because no one want the time together to end. When the party finally ended, the Parker students and our pen pals took our last pictures, shared our last hugs, and said our last tearful goodbyes to the girls, whose stories of their lives in Cambodia touched us deeply. Many people were emotional and it was a sweet moment to share. It was a sweet farewell to a great week with our pen pals. Tomorrow we will leave for Siem Reap, our final destination before we head back home, and we do so with great memories and heavy hearts.

Hannah and Malli

Fruit at street market

Meat at street market

Group and pen pals at Sampeou Montain

Monkey eating ice cream Sampeou Montain

Walking below Sampeou Montain

Bats flying out of Sampeou Mountain

One last picture with the students from Battambang

Day 7: Heart of Campus

            After a night of bonding and plenty of rest attributable to a 9:00 AM late start, we were refreshed and ready to start a new day. Packing into the bus with our pen pals, we headed to Prey Touch Secondary, a Cambodian Village Fund school in a local village. There, we spent the morning setting up their new media room donated by Francis Parker, pumping air into their new soccer balls, and spent the rest of the time playing soccer and other games. We set up the media center with bookshelves, a computer, a printer, and much more.

            Following our morning at the school, we headed toward the house of a Cambodia Village Fund teacher, in whose class we had taught English lessons the past two days. There, we ate lunch prepared by a Cambodian native who has lived in San Diego for the past 40 years. She was the one who gave the original idea for the Cambodian Village Fund to Bill and Nancy. This traditional Cambodian meal consisted of various types of noodles, rice, beef, and vegetables. Many students commented on how delicious the food was and eagerly returned for seconds.

            Next, we broke into three groups and visited the houses of our pen pals. The Cambodian Village Fund has dedicated itself to serving the least fortunate of farming families, so the visits were an eye opening experience for us. The girls and their families held pride in where they came from and warmly welcomed us into their homes. While visiting the houses, we learned stories of their families and their livelihoods. Some girls’ families had huge vegetable gardens while others cultivated rice fields and even more raised pigs, cows, and other animals.

            Two out of the three groups had the opportunity to visit the village market. Under a wooden cover, countless people spent their days selling fresh meats, clothes, and different traditional foods. Many of us all tried barbecued rat-on-a-stick, which actually tasted much better than expected. Some girls took us to their parents’ stands, including a delicious dessert stand where students enjoyed various foods such as rice jelly and sweet melons. It was interesting to walk through the market and see what the daily lives of many villagers were like.

            After having an authentic Cambodian market experience, the students and our pen pals went for a ride on the “bamboo train”. The bamboo train consisted of several carts that were essentially just four wheels, connected by two axels, with a sheet of bamboo on top and a motor. Groups of four sat on the trains together as it rode down its path through rural Battambang. Because all the trains shared one track, when one had to pass in the opposite direction, everyone would have to jump off and disassemble the cart to allow the other to come through. On our way back to the starting point, we stopped the trains and enjoyed the sunset together.

            We ended the day enjoying a delicious dinner at a local restaurant. Many of us enjoyed a drink called the “Battambang Spider”: coke poured over vanilla ice cream. Students remarked at how spectacular the food was, and some ventured to say it was best meal yet.

Brendan and Ally

Aly and Ally pumping up soccer balls

Assembling shelves for the new library at Prey Touch

Our plaque at the Prey Touch School Library

Sarah M playing soccer with the school children

All aboard the tuk tuk to visit the girls' houses

In a village house

On the bamboo train in Battambang

Day 6: Education is the Future in Battambang

After stumbling downstairs at the early hour of 7 A.M., we loaded the bus to head out to the dedication of a new school built by the NGO we have been working with while here in Battambang, the Cambodian Village Fund. We already knew that it was going to be an important day, as Nancy, of Bill and Nancy, the founders of the NGO, spent hours practicing her speech thanking the organization’s donors and was unable to join in the celebration of Malli’s birthday the night before.

After arriving at the school, we were soon ushered through a line of cheering students onto the stage behind Bill and Nancy, the American donors, and a group of Battambang officials. The students, many of whom carried signs that read “We Love You!”, put beautiful scarves around our necks, as it became clear to us that WE were also being honored at this ceremony for our contributions. After walking through the line of children screaming and clapping, we came to the courtyard of the school, which had been fitted with covered chairs, canopies and a stage.

We waited in our distinguished seats for the Minister of Justice to arrive from Phnom Penh, and while it was a long wait, it was wonderful to watch the children running and laughing, enjoying their new play yard. When the Minister finally arrived, the children ran directly to their spots in line ready to greet this powerful member of the government. The man made his way directly to a group of five monks who sat on the side of the stage. It was interesting to watch the Minister praying, as the monks chanted prayers and showered him with small flowers. Coming from a country where the church and state is supposedly separate, it was spectacular to see how important religion is to the people of Cambodia, especially to those in government power.

As the ceremony officially began, the governor of the region gave a speech, once again emphasizing how important this the opening of this school was to the community. Local news reporters and cameramen crowded in front of the stage as Bill and Nancy each gave marvelous speeches, before we heard from one of the girls who had received one of the scholarships that later set her up to attend college. Bill’s speech, given to accept a very high-level award, focused more on how he had come to call Cambodia a second home, and how people he had come to know here as part of his family. It was very touching, especially since he was decked out in an extremely beautiful traditional purple Khmer shirt. Nancy’s speech focused on the success of the scholarship girls and the success of the schools which the Cambodian Village Fund had built. It was a extremely touching speech, as she made sure that the current students knew that they “shined brighter than the stars” and could achieve their dreams. After Bill and Nancy’s speeches, one of the scholarship girls stood up to show how impactful the organization has been on her life, allowing her the chance to go to college and earn a degree that led to a job, which helped her family a lot. It was very moving and brought true meaning to the work Cambodian Village Fund was doing. Next, two of the primary donors, Cameron and Tim, both gave pep talk speeches encouraging the kids to study hard and go after their dreams to help both themselves and Cambodia. Watching the dedication ceremony was something that I know will stay with all of us forever. Seeing the joy and pride that emerged from the students, parents, and elected officials was something that none of us have ever seen. In the U.S. it seems that we sometimes take our educations for granted as we make our way through school, but it was clear to see how important their education was to the Cambodians.

After lunch and little break, we headed out to teach English at the same school from yesterday. We were greeted with the same amazing smiling faces of the kids we had seen the day before. They were so excited to see us again and to learn. We read books, played word games on the chalkboard, and then went outside to play a mixture of “Red Light, Green Light,” “Duck, Duck, Goose,” and “Simon Says”. All the kids were laughing, and even the Cambodian teachers were getting into it. It was a refreshing to see the joy in their eyes as they laughed, played and enjoyed learning. Although they were so eager to learn, trying to come up with lesson plans to keep their attention was a hard challenge. But no matter what we threw at them, we saw positive feedback as they jumped into every game with smiles on their faces. This was honestly one of the best parts of the day, as seeing their smiles and hearing their laughs made us feel a warmth in our hearts that can never be replicated. In one classroom, even the teacher was getting into the games and seemed to be enjoying it just as much as the kids! When it was time to say goodbye, many of the kids latched on to our hands not wanting to let us go - and we didn’t want to let go either. We took millions of pictures with each little smiling face that had made our day so special. Watching them ride their bikes into the sunset on their way home seems like a too-movie-like-to-be-true image, but it is one that will stay with us forever.

After we watched the students ride away, waving and smiling to every single one, we loaded up the bus to headed off to dinner with our penpals. Even through the language barrier, we were able to hold lively conversation and enjoy the beautiful meal. It was a great time not only to learn more about our pen pals, but also a great time for them to learn more about us - and it seems like we have a lot more in common than we thought! One of the girls brought a portable speaker, so on the way back to the hotel we had an amazing group sing-along to “Bang Bang,”  by Nicki Minaj, Jessie J and Ariana Grande, all of the songs on Taylor Swift’s Fearless album, and a couple really fun Khmer songs!  

All in all in was an amazing day full of new experiences, laughter, and learning. We were able to see how important education was to not only the children of Cambodia, but also the government, as well as how foreigners view themselves while they are helping make education a priority in small villages. It taught us how to act when we help support a community, and how not to act, and how important it is to be humble, even after you have done an extremely large charitable act. We had some great laughs and learning experiences with our Pen Pals, as we sang our hearts out and had amazing conversations at the dinner table. And we were touched by amazing children whose eagerness to learn will hopefully take them far in life. It is a day that we will always love and remember.
By: Aly

Our welcome to the school dedication

Parker students and dignitaries at the ceremony (Minister of Justice front row center in tan shirt) 

Street art in Battambang

Spelling lesson before "Rachel Says"

Story time in the classroom

"Red Light, Green Light" with students and pen pals